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Textile screen printing workshop for students of Sophia Polytechnic, Mumbai

Hi Friends,

It is my pleasure to inform you that on 27th July 2017, I conducted a workshop on Advanced Textile Screen Printing for 20 students from Sophia Polytechnic, Art and Design Dept., Mumbai. As informed by their faculty, these students have completed their two year Diploma Course in Textile Designing which comes under Directorate of Art, Government of Maharashtra.

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Click here to view the glimpse of the workshop.

The students, led by their faculty Kaveri Shelar, whole heartedly mentioned in their feedback that the workshop was informative and that they really enjoyed the practical demonstrations of screen making and digital like quality direct to garment screen printing. They said that such practical knowledge/industry interaction is a big missing link in their study.

They shared in the introduction session that they have had basic theory and practical on manual textile screen printing. So, DMI’s workshop was an eye opener as they could see world class training facilities having advanced garment screen printing technology.

With several years of my experience in manufacturing and education in screen printing, I have also done extensive research in textile printing industry. And I found that garment printers have heavily investing in automation but they even lack some basic knowledge and technique required to produce good printing quality.

There is an illusion that by investing in the best & latest automatic screen printing machines one can produce good quality prints. But lack knowledge in pre press, designing, colour separation, colour management and screen making printers are struggling to get best from such expensive machines. I am sure many of you agree that the garment industry lacks qualified and skilled workforce who are sound in this area.

Most of these students said that there is lack of cooperation between academia and industry. So, DMI has now taken a noble initiative to educate students from textile/fashion institutes and bridge the gap between industry and academia.

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In this regards DMI is proposing to various textile and fashion institutes to allow us to set up advanced textile screen printing training centres within their premises so that the next generation of students practically learn textile screen printing with right knowledge.

I urge all textile and fashion institutes to send their students to DMI for such workshops so that they develop interest and get encourage.

Please share your thoughts on this subject.

Bhargav Mistry

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DMI is truly an International Screen Printing Institute!

July 23, 2017 2 comments

Hi Friends,

My recent houseful workshop had 19 overseas participants (South Africa – 10, Egypt – 5, Japan – 1, Nepal – 2 and Sri Lanka – 1). In all there were 59 participants.

DMI is now truly an international screen printing institute!

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There is a saying that sometimes photo speaks more than words. So let me share with you photos of my recent textile workshop.

CLICK HERE AND ENJOY THE PHOTO GALLERY

Have a nice & lazy Sunday…

Bhargav Mistry

Helpline Number for Screen Printers

June 15, 2016 2 comments

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It gives me immense pleasure to announce that screen printers across the globe can now call on this special HELPLINE Number for any kind of technical support related to screen printing process.

 

+91 8 655 755 855

 

Timing : 12.00 pm ~ 1.00 pm and 4.00 pm ~ 5.00 pm (IST), Monday to Thursday

DMI’s technical team including me will try to solve your problems well within DMI’s scope.

As you know DMI is connected to many international experts in screen printing. So, if your problem is not solved within our scope, we will also try to get solutions from international experts associated with DMI.

I am sure this HELPLINE facility will enable screen printers to improve quality standards and resolve day to day problems.

Have a trouble free screen printing…

Bhargav Mistry

Attention Garment Screen Printers, Are you making profit or just surviving?

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I am writing this blog to educate all garment screen printers with regard to the factors which influences costing. And after going through these points one can correct themselves to avoid further loss in business.

It’s difficult to educate or inform everyone, on one to one. So I thought the best way is to write this blog so that everyone can read, understand and implement these points before quoting for your customers job.

As garment screen printers you should never forget that you are helping your customers to sell their printed garments and because of your quality and services they are able to sell their garments in the market effectively.

Majority of garment screen printers, mainly into job work, only consider ink cost and add ‘margins’ with an understanding that the so called ‘margin’ covers their direct and indirect costs. It’s surely a blind faith!

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I have been conducting workshop and seminars in my institute DMI since 2006. In this 10 successful year I have been teaching advance screen printing process on latest machine and equipments using high quality materials and consumables.

During my 3-day workshops, screen printers sincerely write down all the methods and processes that are explained in my theory and practical sessions, and they even take photographs, probably to implement in toto what I teach. But back in their print shop, they seem to be hesitating to use the same method, products or similar quality materials like inks, emulsions, screen mesh, squeegee rubber etc, just because they find it ‘expensive’ compare to what they currently use. And, the end result: they fail to emulate the kind of quality that we have demonstrated in the workshop.

Frankly, the materials are not that expensive but printers are compelled to use lower standard materials and consumables because of their wrong costing and pricing structure prevalent in the market.

Most of the screen printers in textile and garment sector, especially engaged in job work only considers INK as their major cost while making their price-list per colour basis but they totally forget so many important factors during their calculations before sending quotations to customers.

To begin with, for the time being keep the cost of ink, emulsion, screen mesh out from your mind for a while because if you are not taking into account the following things while quoting your customer than I am seriously concerned whether you are making profit or just surviving in your business?

  1. Designing
  2. Positives
  3. Screen making
  4. Rejections
  5. Ink wastage
  6. Squeegee rubber & its maintenance
  7. Electricity charges per piece
  8. Labour
  9. Overtime
  10. Plant & Machinery
  11. Machine maintenance / AM
  12. Spare parts for plant and machinery
  13. Administration & office expenses
  14. Sampling
  15. Other overheads etc…

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DESIGNING:

Even if you have your own art department and artists to do designing, that doesn’t mean it’s not costing you money. Whether the lot size is bigger or smaller, design charges should be added in the costing. Be cautious that if designing charges are not taken from customers as a matter of regular practice, then you as screen printers end up struggling to purchase high quality designs or hire professional designers. But if you start charging for designs, you will not hesitate to purchase high quality designs from professionals or other online paid source, and hire experienced / professional designers for your pre-press activities.

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POSITIVE:

Majority of screen printers in garment/textile sector use tracing paper (generally knowns as ‘butter’ paper) and output their positives on desktop laser printer. It’s because customers don’t pay so printers try to save on designing and positive making and finally struggle for getting good quality printing. Even I have noticed that inkjet films are also considered ‘costly’. Hence image setter positives are out of question.

So always charge to customer for designing as well as positive making especially for smaller lot size.

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SCREEN MAKING:

Screen is the heart of screen printing. I always mention in my workshops ‘Good Screens = Good Quality Prints’. Believe me screens plays the major role in the quality of printing and many screen printers don’t have any idea what should be the right quality of screens. Textile screen printers main focus is alway ‘automatic machine’. But I would like to remind printers once again that to achieve 100% QUALITY in garment screen printing,

Designing & Positives (Pre-press) has 40% role
Screen Making – 40%
Automatic Machine – 10%
Inks & Consumables – 10% Provided if you are using high quality materials and consumables from renowned companies

The reason why screen printers end up making poor quality screens is because they don’t charge their customers for screen making nor they add it in their pricing based on the lot size. Hence they are compelled to use substandard positives, screen mesh, emulsions, chemicals and unprofessional way to develop screens.

Screens are not FREE it cost you lot of money and also does not last longer so it should be charged to customers separately.

The life of screens for printing photographic images with water base inks using fine halftone dots last only upto 500 to 700 impression. If you are lucky or if you have not cleaned the screens in between production due to ink choking or during any intervals etc. than it can deliver upto or over 1000 impression.

POOR INK & EMULSION QUALITY reduces your screen life so use the best mesh, emulsions, chemicals and inks. The life of the screen especially in halftone printing majorly depends on ink so use high quality inks which reduces ink choking issues thus eliminates screen cleaning during production thus avoids stencil wear & tear.

The life of screen can sometimes double or even more with PVC free-phthalate free plastisol inks compare to conventional water based because these plastisol inks does not choke up in screens and does not require cleaning in intervals. But nowadays many companies makes very high quality low-choking water base inks which can also eliminate screen cleaning during production thus increases the life of the screens.

The screen making charges also depend on the number of colours and type of screen required for printing. E.g. the cost of high density screen should be charged higher compare to conventional screen making because it take more time with special attention and care plus the cost of thick film is also higher compare to conventional emulsions.

And don’t forget that screens do have limited life, sometimes it tears due to poor handling or during printing due to dust particles in ink. So in a month some amount of new screen mesh has to be considered in your costing.

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MACHINE SETUP:

Most of the job workers (garment printers) complain that their lot size has now shrunk between 300 and 500 pieces per lot.

So, in this case it would be the biggest blunder or loss making, if you are not charging or considering the cost of machine setup. Everyone knows ‘job changeover’ time is the biggest nightmare in garment printing.

According to me, on an average, the time taken by screen printers practically to change from one job to another is around 1 to 2 hours, or sometimes even more depending on number of colours and accuracy of the job.

If a company runs 8-hour shift (which never happens practically you know!) they end up with average 6.5 or 7 hours a shift. In that case average only 3.5 lots can be finished per shift, considering a min. order of 300 or max. 500 piece per hour considering 1 hour spent for job changeover and setup in between.

So, if you do not charge/consider ‘job changeover’ time and ‘machine setup’ time for smaller lots, then even survival would be difficult, forget about making profit. Because most of your ‘profits’ are being leaked out incognito due to time lost in job change over and machine set up.

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REJECTION:

Many printers are least bothered about the kind of wastage and rejections. Of course, not all pieces are perfect in any production process. Their bound to be rejections which have to be taken into account.

If customer sends job for printing and if they deduct any amount from your invoice due to rejection then you should inform your customer to send you extra pieces needed to cover up the tests, trials, wastage and rejections. You should inform them in advance that there would be certain amount of rejections in each lot and they should accept this fact and should not deduct any amount from your bill.

These days companies are spending millions in process standardisation and process control to minimise rejections. But many average screen printer do not even have weighing scale to weigh ink for repeat accuracy or any meter to make special colour match inks in-house etc. so they all go by an ‘approximate’ measurement done by naked eye and judgment. So, compelling screen printers to have a rejection percentage in ‘points’ in current situation is not practical.

According to the current circumstances & situation 15% to 20% rejection should be considered acceptable for an average screen printer who does have modern setup or right kind of skilled people with proper knowledge and process standardisation.

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INK WASTAGE:

If anyone claims that they do not incur any wastage of ink, it’s totally wrong. Whether you print 100 or 1000 pieces, there will be some amount of ink wastage, especially when printing with water based inks.

The wastage is higher in water based inks compare to PVC free – phthalate free plastisol inks. The advantage of PVC free – phthalate free plastisol inks is that after each job, you can recover every drop of ink back using sharp spatula (except some ink residues left on screens) and secondly the ink does not dry in the screens and there is no evaporation like water based inks.

So, if you are printing with water base inks 15% to 20% wastage of inks should be considered in your costing. This wastage includes the ink you leave on sides of screen and which gets thicker/harder after some time due to water evaporation. In some extreme conditions wastage cannot be reused.

The major factor of water based ink wastage is due to higher temperature in some countries and places plus mainly due to poor plant conditions.

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SQUEEGEE RUBBER & MAINTAINENCE:

The last priority item for every screen printer is ‘SQUEEGEE RUBBER’.

Printers never pay attention to squeegee which is the most crucial tool in the management of quality in printing.

Most screen printers may expect that the squeegee supplied with the machine, should last for years and years! Even the maintenance of the squeegees are so bad and they are never sharpened.

I have seen printing companies where they use squeegee for years unsharpened! Printers should understand that squeegee life is limited and its hardness starts diminishing from the original count (strength). At DMI we change squeegee after its hardness is diminished or if the length reduces more than 5 mm after frequent sharpening.

Even good quality sharpened squeegees can reduce your ink consumption by 5% to 10% in some extreme cases.

Please be aware that the squeegee has a limited life, and hence it should be replaced based on certain ‘weakening’ criteria. So, printers using automatic machines should consider the cost of squeegee while working on costing.

ELECTRICITY CHARGES / LABOUR CHARGES / OVERTIME CHARGES:

Many printers do consider electrical & labour cost but just for a rough estimate.

But the cost is not added on ‘per piece’ basis, because the electrical & labour charges will completely depend on the lot size. E.g. the cost of electricity & labour to print 100 or 10,000 piece will remain the same, but it will change drastically based on the lot size due to change over time, downtime, wastage of materials, and time wasted by labours during job change over. In this case the price cannot be the same per colour for 100, 300 and 1000 or more…

So, electricity, labour cost and overtime charges very much depends on the lot size, setup time and change over time.

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PLANT & MACHINERY / MAINTAINENCE CHARGES / SPARE PARTS:

Your plant and machinery requires regular maintenance. So if you cannot generate enough profit you will have to compromise on the maintenance of your plant and machinery which indirectly reduces the life of your machines and thus it will affect production and quality.

Better to deposit some amount every month in a separate account for safety and for maintenance of your plant and machinery like machines, generator, vehicles etc.

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ADMINISTRATION COST:

Your office administration cost in general should also be considered based on your monthly production.

E.g. If 10 people are working in your office for admin work with an average salary e.g. Rs. 15,000 per month, and let say your monthly production is around 100,000/per month and you have already added Rs. 1.50 in your costing. Now if your quantity shrinks down due to change over time or ink matching time or for any other reason, then it will directly affect your profit margin. But if you increase your production and productivity with same people, your profit will increase drastically.

FINALLY, FREE SAMPLING:

I know there is a trend all over to provide free samples to customers.

But I do not want to explain in details because by now you must have understood why one should not make free samples to customers. Because it cost you a lot of money for making screens, positives, setup time and other overheads.

While making samples for customer, you have to make special match colours. If the design works, you consume those inks; but if the design fails, your matched ink has to be used in other jobs or it remains in stock and has to thrown after some time.

That’s the reason why DMI has introduced a new system where in you only have to keep stocks of basic 14 Pantone colours, and all your designs will be printed using those limited colours. This will help you to minimise unwanted stock of inks and time to match special colour. Quite often, while matching special colours, there is possibility of wastage due to error in colour matching.

So, it’s not only the ink cost that you need to consider to add to your profit, but all the above factors should also be considered while working on your costing because today the major cost is labour, electricity, land, machinery and overheads.

Don’t struggle in production by using substandard, low quality inks, materials and consumables.

According to me don’t consider INK or EMULSION cost into your mind, if you increase your productivity, reduce machine setup time, reduce job change over time, minimise colour by doing proper separation of each designs believe me INK or EMULSION cost will be no where in account.

Most screen printers works so hard, spend so much time and energy to source cheaper substandard inks but fails to understand that the ink, emulsion cost even does not come into account if you increase productivity, reduce rejection & downtime, reduce setup & job changeover time. Don’t forget day by day overhead, labour cost land, electricity etc. will become very expensive compare to INKS & EMULSIONS.

Based on my experience and observation, I urge all the garment screen printers…

“Do not consider the costs that you feel to be considered and do consider the costs that you feel should not be considered”

So avoid further loss and start charging your customers for designing, screen making, positives, sampling and development charges on regular basis.

Because its better to maintain healthy competitions for long term business and don’t let your customers take the advantage of your ignorance & innocence.

To be more productive, reduce machine setup time, reduce job change over time, minimise colour & screens using high end colour separation software and to understand costing in details register to my workshop on advanced screen printing on textile.

For more information log on to: www.graficaindia.com

Be profitable and remain healthy in business.

Have a profitable week…

Bhargav Mistry

 

Multiple Invitations on 6th May 2016

My Dear Friends, Well Wishers, Grafica Customers & DMI Participants,

It’s my immense pleasure to invite you on 6th May 2016 to celebrate DMI (Dhirubhai Mistry Institute For Print Education, Research, Technology & Training) 10th Anniversary year.

 

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Along with this historical moments we are also launching 3 new products at the upcoming exhibition Screen Print India 2016 at Bombay Exhibition Centre, Goregaon, Mumbai

 

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So once again it’s my sincere request to all of you to please be present as I would like to meet you personally, especially I am eager to meet all my workshop participants and students who have been my inspiration.

You will also see many new ideas, concepts, automation and innovative products which will boost your productivity and profits.

SPECIAL ATTRACTION:
For the first time my close friend and one of the jury member of FESPA AWARDS, Jacek Stencel of PASJA is coming all the way from POLAND to conduct various seminars on special effects screen printing on value addition and packaging.

He will also be carrying many samples for display where you will get to learn many new innovative & creative ideas which will directly help you to implement in your jobs.

You will also get a chance to interact with him and learn everything about special effects inks and designing. His creative samples and knowledge will help you to uplift your creativity and imagination process.

He will also display new ideas and innovative products which will help you to enter into many new areas.

His seminar will have limited seats and entry is restricted unless proper registrations is done online.

I shall put the time table of all seminars shortly with topics and all details about various international speakers who shall be conducting these seminars.

See you soon at SPI 2016 and be in touch with us for more details.

Happy Screen Printing

Bhargav Mistry

Upcoming Events & ITMA 2015 Update

December 6, 2015 Leave a comment

Hi Friends,

There are many events at Grafica and DMI in a row this month.

After I returned from the ITMA’15, a mega exhibition related to textile/garment industry held on 12-19 November 2015 in Milan, Italy. As an Indian distributor of Aeoon Technologies, Austria, we also shared a common platform with Aeoon to promote Aeoon KYO series digital printers in India.

Aeoon Direct to Garment Digital Printing Machine

Aeoon @ITMA 2015, Milan, Italy

Aeoon’s young and super sturdy machines have really rocked and proved their strength in the global market by securing several order bookings at ITMA.

This shows that despite the severe competition, their machine is one of the finest in the world. I came to know that some of their customers were using other DTG digital printing machines, but they were quite disappointed in terms of quality and productivity, hence they turned to Aeoon. That’s really amazing.

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Aeoon’s few World Wide Distributors

The success of Aeoon Technologies is purely on merits of – Quality of their machine, striking design, productive features, performance and higher customer satisfaction. I would say the credit for Aeoon’s success should also go to their network of loyal dealers/ distributors and of course Aeoon management’s trust and confidence in them … I feel for a manufacturing companies like us, gaining dealer’s and customers’ loyalty and trust is very important for the growth and success in business and Aeoon has proved to be the best company to satisfy their dealers and distributors.

CLICK HERE TO SEE THE PHOTO GALLERY

Anyway, back home, our team is just getting ready for the PAMEX’15 exhibition to be held in Mumbai on 9-12 December 2015. We will be showcasing our Cylinder Press, and other semi automatic screen printing machines. Our team will hold constant live demo to reveal the secret of value addition. I and our team expect to meet many of you at this mega event held once in two years.

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After this exhibition, my team will rush to exhibit our nano-prinTex and nano-prinTag at KnitVision in Ludhiana on 18-21 December 2015.

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Grafica’s New nano-prinTex 18 Pallet, Automatic Direct to Garment Screen Printing Machine. Available with max. print area 28″ x 40″

And on the export front, our Turkey distributor, Fatih Tekstil, is gearing up for the FESPA- EURASIA to be held in Istanbul, on 10-13 December 2015.

Available from 1 to 4 Colour print heads with Flash between each print heads for superior quality printing.

Grafica’s NEW nano-prinTag plus Available from 1 to 4 Colour print heads with Flash between each print heads for superior quality printing. Max. Print Area 12″ x 14″

Meanwhile, I know that many of you in garment industry couldn’t attend DMI’s recent workshop on Advanced Textile Screen Printing Process. So, we share the glimpses of 3-day workshop held on 27-29 October 2015 (Page 6) of our latest Grafica News India magazine November 2015 issue.

Finally, please join me in congratulating 4 companies – PRS Permacel, Tarun Print Tech, Classic Stripes, and Nageen Prakashan – who, in all, won as many as 25 awards in the recently concluded SGIA’15 competition in USA, making India proud. (Page 12). And, now that Fespa has also invited entries for their 2016 Award Competition (Page 12) of our latest Grafica News India magazine November 2015 issue.

Glimpses of my previous 3-day workshop on ‘Advanced Screen Printing Process’ (Textile / Garment / Heat Transfers) 27-29 October 2015 at DMI. The workshop was attended by around 35 professionals from garment industry.

DMI WORKSHOP PHOTO GALLERY 27-28-29 OCT 2015

And finally my upcoming workshop on direct to garment screen printing is scheduled on 1-2-3 Feb 2016. So if you wish to learn DMI’s latest innovation on garments to print Digital like quality through screen printing to reproduce nearly continuous tone images than kindly log on to www.graficaindia.com and reserve your seats today.

Here is the video showing our recently printing images using this new technique.

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YouTube Video Link

If you wish to get our 10 latest samples printed using this technique for FREE then call our sales team on +91 22 26838815 / 6

Thanks and have a great Sunday.

Bhargav Mistry

On this 69th Year of Independence are you Independent?

August 15, 2015 3 comments

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Dear Friends,

First let me wish all of you a Happy Independence Day.

Today India is celebrating its 69th Year of Independence and DMI (Dhirubhai Mistry Institute For Print Education Research & Training) is celebrating 9th successful years giving freedom to screen printers by updating their knowledge FREE OF COST.

The factors that kept our screen printers in dependence and away from independence was due to lack of knowledge and no access to practical training in advance screen printing technology.

In past 9 years DMI has given lots of freedom to many professional screen printers and students to explore their creativity in Advance Screen Printing, UV special effects, print finishing and now DMI has taken the challenge to explore many creative ideas into textile/garment screen printing.

Since 1989 Grafica has been a backbone of the screen printing industry and has developed many high quality screen printing machines for graphics and textile screen printers.

Our research and innovation in machinery has not only supported our country to save foreign currency to certain extend but have also given lots of freedom to existing and upcoming screen printers, especially in small towns and villages who were having limited access towards automation in screen printing technology.

At GRAFICA & DMI screen printers have total freedom to access our FREE workshops and training programs, freedom to share their problems, freedom to get hands-on-training from experts, freedom to see latest techniques practical, freedom to learn from various high quality samples and freedom to experiment on their products using our innovative machines.

Screen printers who are still struggling to achieve perfection in quality and want to learn latest techniques in screen printing then participate in DMI workshops and training programs regularly and don’t forget to also send your staff and employees for training because they are the ones who needs to upgrade their knowledge.

So my dear screen printers on this 69th year of independence I would strongly recommend you to participate in DMI (Dhirubhai Mistry Institute For Print Education Research & Training) Workshops and Training program to give yourself total freedom to explore your creativity and give yourself freedom to grow.

More than 1200 print professionals in 9 years at DMI have learn how to become independent so what are you waiting for…

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Our next workshop which is scheduled on 24-25-26 August focused mainly for Textile & Garment Screen Printers. This workshop is totally full by now but we will be soon announcing our next workshop dates. So keep in touch and visit http://www.graficaindia.com to see our next schedule. You can also follow us on twitter @graficaindia to get automatic notifications of our next workshop dates.

At DMI – Learn More | Earn More and with complete freedom…

Have a nice weekend…

Jai Hind… Screen Printing Zindabad.

Bhargav Mistry

CLICK HERE TO SEE PHOTO GALLERY OF OUR RECENT WORKSHOP CONCLUDED ON 3-4-5 AUG 2015

DMI’s modern & fully air-conditioned facility in India equipped with latest machines tools and equipments.
A unique opportunity to learn advance screen printing technology FREE OF COST with complete FREEDOM.

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